Shirtwaist, 1890-1910
2013.03a
Shirt
1890-19101900-1912
White/Cream
Cotton (embroidery); Linen
45.25 (bust), 12 in. (under sleeve), 17 in. (sleeve), 46.25 to 21.5 in. (waist), 17.5 in. (center front), 14.25 in. (center back), 16 in. (neck)
2013.03
This shirtwaist combines several decorative elements. First, a wide band of lace, with picot edging, forms the cuffs and stand collar. This same lace also forms an inset that runs down the center front, and on either side of the button placket for which fifteen small thread-covered plastic buttons provide center-back closure. Additional lace can be seen in the faggoting at the shoulder seams. Second, a hand-embroidered plant design is executed alongside the lace, throughout the garment, running around the collar and cuffs. Finally, open-work lace medallions are inset in pairs to decorate the front and back yoke and sleeves. A detail that appears upon closer inspection is that two more lace medallions are worked into the lace of the collar at the throat. Here, the threads differ slightly in color. The darker thread used for the medallions also appears as a scalloped design on the top of the collar.
Inside the garment, the seams are machine sewn with hand-finished edges. Wire supports are stitched into the lace collar. The back of the bodice gathers into a grosgrain waist tape. The front of the bodice is finished with a double row of stitching leaving a frayed edge. Two metal bars have been added at the bottom sides.
-Huard
